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April 29, 2007

another track on the CD of my stay

This track begins as an Argentine compliments my Spanish (here it's commonly referred as Castellano). This is a recurring occurence and was burned indelibly into my speech centres last year. Now I only need to sing along:

"You speak good Castellano"
"Thank you, but I don't think I do. I have a lot to learn"
"But I understand you very well".
                This usually after a conversation that has proven beyond doubt that they don't.
"But I can't say what I want the way I want to say it"
"It's possible to do so slowly".
                I've come to understand that this is not an instruction to speak slowly. Neither is it an expression that means if I take my time everything will be fine. Instead it conveys the idea that if I take it easy I'll slowly learn good Spanish with no actual effort and through a kind of osmosis.
"Thank you. But can you correct my Spanish or it will not get better. Please."
"OK"

                I don't know the technical word, but Porteños use some words as punctuation rather than for the meaning. “OK” is one of these. It can mean anything from "I've heard you and intend to do nothing at all" to "yes of course I will, starting right now". I once asked a taxi driver why no-one would correct me. He explained it very well. They'd prefer that we both just struggled along than risk that their corrections change my attitude towards them, to my visit or the country in general.

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Drummer playing regional Salteno music
(c) Carole Edrich, 2006

The same ambiguity can be found in milongas. I’m barely past “principiante” (beginner level). I can’t dance tango anywhere near as well as I can speak the language and it is just as difficult to interpret what’s really meant on the dance floor! “You dance very well” can mean anything from “I am acknowledging that you’re making an effort and want to encourage you” through “I’d like you to think well of my dance and my country” or even “I’d like to sleep with you tonight”. I’m rarely sure which is intended and am bound to end up in trouble as a result!

Posted by carole at 01:08 AM | Comments (0)

April 28, 2007

a track on the CD of my stay

Most Porteños don't do early.

It seems that many office workers in Buenos Aires wouldn’t consider starting before half past ten in the morning. They’re not bothered about leaving the office around eight in the evening as the night-life doesn't start until well after midnight. They are as amazed by my early starts as I am by their late ones. So many locals ask why I start work early that you could burn the track of a CD through the quantity of repetitions alone!

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Gift from architects to the city of Buenos Aires
(c) Carole Edrich, 2006

My response is that there's a lot to do and my language skills are such that everything takes me longer than it would them. It's not a lie and really, honestly is part of the reason. What I don't often add is that I'd also rather not make notes and write at times when I can be out meeting people, learning more Buenos Aires, the Porteños and about dance and generally experiencing the sensations that this wonderful country can offer. Also if I can get enough done early on there will be enough time for tango lessons and dancing later. But the biggest reason is that after five days here almost every meeting has been rearranged at least twice. That didn’t happen last year and is not good news when my date of departure is already set.

Meanwhile, I've learned to allow for .. well… anything.

Posted by carole at 12:49 AM | Comments (0)
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