Carole Edrich Weblog

Barefoot in Buenos Aires

Leaving the car less than a block away from the Plaza del Congresso, I was surprised that I couldn’t hear music and wondered whether the ‘worlds largest open air tango festival’ really was as big as billed.

I shouldn't have wondered. Tango doesn’t need to be played at full volume to be appreciated and maybe sound doesn’t travel as far here as it would in London because of some accident of urban design, but as we rounded the corner all I could see was people and the music of tango was everywhere.

Me at the open air tango festival
Other tango shots are dotted through my moblog
(c) Cheso, 2006

Loudspeakers were dotted throughout the proud Plaza de Congresso and leafy Avenida de Mayo. Tangueros danced in front of each, creating pools of space around which good natured clusters of people gathered.

Here was the proof of what I had read, that the momentum of the tango revival is increasing and that it is once again becoming popular with the young. Whether young or old, dressed casually, in evening wear or to tango, the fascinating diversity of individuals were united by their appreciation of the music and a languorous, coordinated sensuality of dance.

We watched the tangueros while threading our way along the Avenida de Mayo towards the stage and I saw proof of something that Paul and Michiko teach in London; that everyone leads in a slightly different way. Some used very slight movements of body or changes in orientation, or pressure of hands or arms, while others gave signals that were so unsubtle that they were impossible for dancer and watcher to miss. Older married couples emitted an aura of familiarity and you could tell those who had danced together regularly because they looked both well-coordinated and comfortable. All moved with the intoxicating flow of the dance, seeming to float in magical seas of space and music.

Tango was originally danced by men in pairs and although it’s much less fashionable to do so now, one of the most striking memories I have is of two men who seemed oblivious to anything but the dance. Well matched physically, their musicality and footwork was impressive and they looked both sensual and comfortable dancing together in public. Also impressive were two children of nine or ten years of age. Dressed for the part, he in a suit and she in a short skirt with her hair tied into a tight bun they were serious and intent on their dance and an absolute delight to watch.

Because my friends had whisked me away from a formal dinner at the famous La Cabana (part of the preparations for the forthcoming Harrods Argentina Promotion in May) I had no time to change. My evening wear probably gave the impression that I knew how to tango and I was asked several times. I soon discovered that three months of lessons was nowhere near enough, that my shoes were completely inappropriate and that it’s even more difficult to dance when you’re barefoot in the street, on the balls of your feet and struggling for balance. In a milonga it’s normal to dance two or three turns with the same person. If you are only asked to dance once it's because something is wrong so I was thrilled that my partners didn’t drop me after the first dance (except for one and that was mutual). My enthusiasm was only slightly dampened when I heard one man telling my Argentine friends that the ‘Gringa’ (that’s me) was ‘very brave’.

This celebration of tango was the culmination of an annual open air Tango Festival. It is celebrated in the first week in March and events are organised all over Buenos Aires. Most of it is free or with a small nominal charge, and it includes guided tango-related walks, historical talks and tours, classes, shows, concerts and of course milongas which are opportunities for everyone to dance.

Perspective of La Cabana from my personal blog is here.

Posted by carole at March 6, 2006 09:52 PM