© Faena Hotel + Universe The hotel: www.faenahotelanduniverse.com General information as well as tango news can be found at: www.tourism.gov.ar Latin America Travel Association for more information: www.lata.org Carole Edrich reviews

Ushered in through a discrete entrance guarded by two immaculate bouncers, it’s a while to make sense of what’s around. Benches lined with deep black velvet, punctuated with blood red resin-covered bowls run along the centre of this tunnel of a hall. Half-open doors reveal tantalising glimpses of exclusive shops, softly lit bars and lavishly appointed restaurants. Snatches of conversation, moody jazz and the smell of clean, fresh lemons make me wish there was more time to spend in this intriguing edifice.

The gorgeous head waiter leads me to a small round table by the piano laid for one. Elegant and straight-backed, the chair is upholstered with blood-red velvet. On the table subtly contoured silver cutlery and sparkling crystal wine glasses reflect the flame of a white candle burning in its crimson shade. A second good looking waiter (they’re all stunning here) offers a choice of Argentina’s best wine or champagne. Another pours my water.

The Faena Tango Salon is intimate and well designed and the intrusion of photography is forbidden. While 120 people can dine in comfort it feels more like 60. With Piazolla playing softly, this exclusive room could have been plucked from a gothic novel, detective story or fin de siecle romance.

Notably different to other audiences in Buenos Aires, the guests are neither overdressed nor flash. As the only solo diner in the room I’m as much interest to them as they are to me. They examine me unobtrusively. I wonder what sort of life each leads.

The room darkens and five earnest, attractive young men dressed completely in white walk to their posts on the stage to my left. Intoxicating Tango Nuevo fills the air. So large, loud and white are the musicians that it takes a while to become aware of two dancers performing on the stage I’m facing. Their tango is acrobatic with smooth changes in pace and floorwork. They use the entire stage floor. As the first number ends and he spins her into darkness I wonder how anyone can fail to be moved. The atmosphere’s both opulent and exotic, his movements masculine and precise and her flourishes and zapateado a pleasure to behold.

The show continues. Four women in baby-doll bedclothes ‘entertain’ four men to a traditional tango valtz. They swirl around the small stage like a cloud of peripatetic, graceful and seductive fairies until the ending chord is played. A single singer takes to the stage. His shadow, topped by a trilby cocked like a fifties film star falls on the scarlet curtain behind him and the audience bellow their approval.

Each number tells a tiny story and has a flourishing finale. The woman vocalist has long dark hair a tiny waist, improbable breasts, a deep sensual voice and staggeringly sexy clothes. Once done she’s lifted off the stage with a twist and flourish and the dancers return for a well-timed but frenetic milonga.

The choreography uses stage and bar area well and the audience shouts its appreciation for acrobatic flips and familiar songs. As the evening progresses the dancing becomes yet more acrobatic and the footwork faster. Women in period costume (and semi-undress) dance to the music of Roxanne from Moulin Rouge with their partners in full fifties day wear. Couples enhance the rhythm of the Gallo Ciego until it feels like the heartbeat of the room. Gricel is sung by the male singer and danced with humour and energy by the troupe. Each number ends so well and spectacularly that I wonder how the finale can top it.

The climax is in two parts. The first is pure music with each player performing a solo and taking the opportunity to shine. Then, flexible and fleet footed the troupe performs a complex number to an embellished musical form of La Cumparsita. The audience loves it, roars and claps for more.

This is show tango as it’s dreamed of. As it’s contrived to appear in films. It’s slick, well produced and well rehearsed.

Visit Buenos Aires to learn tango and for the clubs but be sure to book a night here. It’s one you’ll remember forever.